5.2 : A wave with a wave height of 2 m and a wavelength of 50 m is running up on a beach with a slope of 1:10. What is the run-up height?
Solution: The boundary conditions are: (1) the kinematic free surface boundary condition, (2) the dynamic free surface boundary condition, and (3) the bottom boundary condition. Solution: Using the run-up formula, we can calculate
Solution: Using the run-up formula, we can calculate the run-up height: $R = \frac{H}{\tan{\beta}} = \frac{2}{0.1} = 20$ m. What is the breaking wave height
Solution: The main assumptions made in water wave mechanics are: (1) the fluid is incompressible, (2) the fluid is inviscid, (3) the flow is irrotational, and (4) the wave height is small compared to the wavelength. What is the breaking wave height?
5.1 : A wave with a wave height of 5 m and a wavelength of 100 m is approaching a beach with a slope of 1:20. What is the breaking wave height?
